TRAVEL: Our latest cycling offer from Bob Hardy

Back in the 70s it got bypassed in more ways than one after it lost its railway connection and the new road in its place encouraged the traveller to pass by without dropping into its delightful town square which is now full of lively cafes, delis, nicely refurbished hotels and flower-adorned cottages. The busy bus stop suggests it is the hub of the central Wales bus services bringing in people from all over the principality.

Nearby are the superb country pubs like the George at Penmaenpool on the river and the Cross Foxes up on the mountain pass. It is an excellent walking area with the Precipice walk, the new Precipice walk, the Mawddach trail and the Torrent walk probably the top picks of the bunch, not to mention Cader Idris itself – all of which you could incorporate into your day out on the bikes.

Last month a group of us decided to have one last bike trip to Barmouth before they close the bridge for repairs this autumn. However, rather than go the conventional way along the old railway line – the Mawddach trail – we decided to take the mountain pass out of Dolgellau, past Cregennan lakes and down to Llwyngwril before taking the coastal corniche back into Fairbourne and across the bridge for fish and chips at the magnificent Mermaid chippy by Barmouth Station.

The route out of Dolgellau is via the top (south) end of the town square heading west and along Cader Road and then bear left at the toll house opposite a garage forecourt and up the lane signposted to Cader Idris. The first mile up this road is quite a steep climb but it soon gets better as you get up to the Gwernan Lake and the mountain pass under Cader Idris towering above you. Gwernan Lake apparently has fine trout fishing but it looks as though the hotel has sadly recently closed. Stay on this lane all the way up over cattle grids until you reach the turning for Cregennan Lakes. You can take a small detour here to the lakes for a picnic or a rest or a fine view down to Barmouth below. However the best panoramic view comes later on just before you start your descent down to Llwyngwril.

Stay on the tarmac road all the way and take in the magnificent views all around you. Its truly breathtaking up here. You will have plenty of opportunity for stops as you open and close farmer gates on your journey. You pass a beautifully sited cottage with a wind turbine looking down with that stunning view over Barmouth. Then you climb up through the forestry land which has mainly all been harvested, through yet more gates until you reach the ridge looking down over the estuary and coast all the way up to Harlech and to the Lleyn Peninsula beyond. Stop for a while and soak it all in. On a fine day its hard to imagine a more spectacular spot.

Then its down a brake burning hill to the village of Llwyngwril below. Here you pick up the coastal corniche road which hugs the cliffs above the railway line down towards Fairbourne. Once again this section is beautiful. As soon as you are getting to the bottom of the hill take a sharp left turn around a cottage on Penrhyn Drive, under the railway and along the sea defences at beautiful Fairbourne. It is sad to see Fairbourne going through difficult times as the hotels close and the house prices plummet as residents and new buyers desert the place with predictions of future sea defence failures.

Continue until you pass the pitch and putt golf course and turn right through the gate onto the gravel cycle path which will take you to Barmouth Bridge where you can either head into Barmouth or go back to Dolgellau along the Mawddach Trail – surely one of the best cycle paths in Britain. Oh to have something like that around here on our old railway track beds going down to Llanymynech and up the Tanat and Cain valleys or even to Gobowen or Ellesmere.

One day the powers that be will see what enormous tourism benefits and health benefits such paths can bring to this area. not to mention linking up our surrounding villages for safe cycling to work and school!!!